The other side wall now...
Para o outro lado da loja, eu queria um visual mais 'destruído'. Como se uma construção vizinha, que tivesse compartilhado a parede, tivesse sido demolida e ainda nada tivesse sido reconstruído no lugar. A virada do século foi um momento de muitas transformações na cidade, com muitas demolições e construções acontecendo o tempo todo. Como na foto abaixo...
For the other side of the building, I wanted a 'worn down' look. As if there had been a building there, which shared the wall, but that had been torn down and no other one has been built there, yet... The turn of the 19th to the 20th century was very feverish in terms of building, with many demolitions and new buildings happening all over the city (São Paulo is where my fictitious store is located). Just like in the picture below...
Esta técnica que usei poderia ser melhor realizada com DAS, um tipo de massa importada que tem a mesma aparência de tijolo. Mas como é difícil de encontrar, usei biscuit mesmo. Afinal, eu só queria alguns tijolos expostos. O restante seria coberto pelo 'reboco'. Poderia nem ter feito toda a parede de 'tijolos, só a parte aparente. Mas a impressão dos tijolos sob o reboco dá mais realismo, como aprendi com a Otterine/Brae.
I could have used DAS, a kind of paper clay, that already comes in a terracotta color. It makes wonderful bricks! But as it's hard to find here, I went with cold porcelain, much cheaper and easily found. After all, there would be only a few bricks exposed. The rest would be covered by the 'plaster'. Yes, I could have made just a few 'patches' here and there, but as I learned from Otterine/Brae, it looks more realistic if you do it all.
Primeiro passo: abrir a massa. Como eu não fazia questão de uniformidade, abri de qualquer jeito. Mas o certo é abrir entre guias de espessura, para ficar uniforme (se quiser um resultado mais caprichado...)
First step: open the 'dough'. As I didn't care for a uniform thickness, I opened without any guiding. But the correct way to do this to get an even result is by using "thickness rulers'...
o jeito 'certo' de abrir a massa... the 'right' way of working the porcelain... |
I spread glue on the 'wall' and placed the cold porcelain. I would spread glue as I had whole flat pieces to place, or it would dry too soon.
Agora foi a hora de marcar os tijolos. Usei um rolo marcador que se compra em lojas de artesanato. Mas o meu estava soltando - não verifiquei isso antes - e não daria tempo de colar e consertar, senão secaria o biscuit. Então tive dificuldade de controlar a pressão. Tudo bem no meu caso, pois a maior parte ficaria coberta. Verifique antes e faça testes!!!
Now it was time to score the bricks. I used a scoring roll easily found here at crafts stores. But mine was kinda loose, and I neglected to check it before I started. Too late, I couldn't afford to glue and fix it now, so I went on anyway. It was really hard to control the pressure, and it will show later. No problem, only parts will be exposed, so I didn't worry. But remember: test all your tools before you start!!!
procure fazer as linhas coincidirem. Try to make the lines match. |
biscuit natural parece branco quando ainda úmido. natural cold porcelain looks white while still 'moist'. |
mas ao secar fica quase transparente! Veja as marcas do rolo causadas pela dificuldade em controlá-lo! but it dries almost transparent! Now you can see the roll marks, caused by the wobbling!... |
That was a very hot and dry day, and so the cold porcelain tended to dry way too fast. To give me some more working time, I sprinkled some water on it. When I rolled the brick thing, it created an extra 'texture' I hadn't planned, as the water made the cold porcelain stick to the tool. I actually liked it, as it would make it even more like the adjacent wall had been 'torn down'. I let it dry overnight.
Depois de seco, foi a hora de pintar. Usei o mesmo preparado cor de 'cimento' qut tinha feito para o outro lado (guardei em um frasco bem fechado). Fiz uma tinta mais parecida com o tom base do EVA que usei do outro lado para pintar o tijolo.
Once dry, it was time to paint the bricks. I used the same color I prepared for the 'mortar' on the other side wall (I had saved it). I also prepared some paint to 'match' the base EVA (foam sheet) color I used on the other side, to paint the 'bricks'.
Agora foi a vez de passar o 'reboco': usei gesso acrílico e misturei tinta até atingir o tom da de verde que usei na fachada. Espalhei uma camada bem grossa, com uma espátula, deixando 'brechas' onde queria que aparecesse o tijolo, como se um piso ou muro tivesse existido ali, ou simplesmente foi 'descascado' durante a demolição.
Next, time to 'plaster' the wall: I prepared a mix of 'acrylic plaster', used by painters, and mixed the same green paint I used on the facade. I spread a thick layer, with the help of a spatula, leaving the painted areas uncovered, so that the 'bricks' would show. I wanted it to look like some adjacent walls or ceilings had been there before or as if the plaster had been carelessly removed during the demolition.
I allowed a couple of hours to dry, but when I went there to check, I noticed it cracked all over. I guess the chemicals in the 'plaster' and the paint didn't agree well... I spread another layer, then smoothed it. After it dried, I sanded. Finally, I applied a very dark brown wash to simulate the 'damp patches' caused by rain, and also, again, some eye shadows.
E o resultado ficou assim:
And it looks like this:
detalhe / close-up |